BUCKET LIST FOR THIS REGION
- Climb the Waterberg for an awe-inspiring view
- Take a photo with the biggest meteorite in the world
- Visit Khaudum and see the gemsbok and roan grazing together – the only place in Namibia where both naturally occur.
- Visit a San village and learn about their traditional way of life
Waterberg Plateau Park
Rising as an island of colour some 200 metres above the surrounding African bush and savannah, the Waterberg Plateau, with its flamboyant brick-red sandstone formations and lush green vegetation, is without a doubt the main drawcard of the region.
The 405 km² Waterberg Plateau Park was proclaimed in 1972 as a reserve for endangered and protected species. The history of the park began on 15 June 1956 with the declaration of two portions of the plateau as natural monuments. This came to pass after representations were made to the then SWA Administration by the Kameradschaft Ehemaliger Deutscher Soldaten, members of the Scientific Society, the Monuments Commission, and other interested parties. The two areas – the Omuverume Plateau and the Karakuwisa Mountain Range – were, however, divided by farms that had been allocated to farmers in the past. The Omuverume Plateau is probably the only sandveld vegetation type that developed for many centuries without being disturbed, due to the vertical cliffs and flora there having reached a unique stage of climate development. Interestingly enough, the original motivation for the proclamation of the entire Waterberg Plateau as a park was to create a reserve for eland. It was reasoned that there were about 800 eland in the Waterberg area that moved from farm to farm and caused a nuisance. As soon as the farmers obtained ownership of the game on their land, the future of these eland would be in jeopardy because the farmers did not tolerate these animals on their land. How wrong this statement proved to be! It was only when farmers were granted ownership of their game, that game populations in the country began to flourish and increase.
Today’s Waterberg Plateau Park is home to some 25 game and over 200 bird species. Rare species such as roan and sable antelope, Cape buffalo and tsessebe occur in large numbers. Species such as black and white rhino are also firmly established on the plateau. The vegetation changes dramatically from acacia savannah at the foot of the plateau to lush green sub-tropical dry woodland with tall trees and grassy plains at the top. Ten fern species have been recorded at the Waterberg, of which one is endemic to Namibia and Angola. There is also an impressive range of flowering plants, including the conspicuous flame lily, Gloriosa superba.
At the foot of the Waterberg plateau a German military graveyard serves as a reminder of one of the darkest periods in Namibian history. During the German-Herero conflict of 1904 to 1907 this was the site of the historic Battle of Waterberg. On 11 August 1904 with Lieut. Gen. Lothar von Trotha at the helm, the German Schutztruppe attempts an aggressive encirclement tactic, surrounding the Herero south of the plateau and killing between 3 000 – 5 000 Herero combatants.The Germans fail to complete the encirclement and most of the Herero manage to escape southeasterly into the waterless Omaheke. The Germans aggressively pursue and then cut off any escape route, forcing the Herero to flee east into British Bechuanaland (now Botswana). During the exodus tens of thousands of men, women and children die of thirst and hunger as they have to travel through the Kalahari Desert to reach the safety of British Bechuanaland.
At the eastern extremity of the park is the Okatjikona Environmental Education Centre, a facility run by the Ministry of Environment, Forestry and Tourism that provides the opportunity for visiting groups, mainly schoolchildren, to learn about the importance of environmental conservation.
The superb natural beauty of the Waterberg can be enjoyed by vehicle on a guided game-viewing tour conducted by NWR or on easy walking routes along the base of the plateau.
Top attractions in the area
HOBA METEORITE
The largest known meteorite in the world, Hoba Meteorite, lies in a shallow depression on the farm Hoba-West, about 20 km west of Grootfontein. The 50-tonne mass of iron and nickel is between 100 and 300 million years old. It crashed into earth some 30 000 to 80 000 years ago. It was discovered by Jacobus Hermanus Brits in the 1920s.
Measures to protect the meteorite were taken in the 1980s in a joint venture between Rössing Uranium Ltd and the National Monuments Council. A stone amphitheatre was built around it to allow for convenient viewing, with a museum wall at the entrance displaying information about the meteorite. An interesting variety of birds such as the Kalahari Scrub Robin and several species of waxbills inhabit the surroundings.
DINOSAUR FOOTPRINTS
Tracks of a two-legged, three-toed dinosaur can be viewed 29 km north of the town of Kalkveld on the farm Otjihaenamaparero. The cluster of small, shallow indentations in the rock surface – declared a national monument in 1951 – is estimated to be 150 million to 185 million years old. Visitors are required to pay a fee, and overnight and picnic facilities are provided on the farm.
DRAGON’S BREATH
On the farm Harasib, 46 km northwest of Grootfontein off the C42 to Tsumeb, is the world’s largest known underground lake. It lies about 60 metres below ground level in a cave referred to as Dragon’s Breath, an enormous cavern of solid rock accessed from above using ropes and caving equipment. The lake has crystal-clear water and a surface area of almost two hectares. It is currently accessible only to professional cavers and divers. On the same property is Harasib Lake, where a group of cave divers, reaching depths of 147 metres in July 2012, set a new record. Dragon’s Breath is only accessible through pre-arranged private tours.
NYAE NYAE CONSERVANCY
Formerly called Bushmanland, the Nyae Nyae Conservancy is home to the Ju’Hoansi San. The conservancy is situated next to the northeastern border with Botswana and stretches south from the Khaudum National Park to the veterinary cordon fence 30 km north of Gam. The area is speckled with pans that flood after good rains, such as the Nyae Nyae Pan. The body of water attracts thousands of birds that feed and nest in the shallow waters. The variety of birdlife includes Whiskered Terns, Ducks, Geese, Bee- eaters, Spoonbills, the African Open-bill, Saddle-billed Stork, Herons, and the Wattled Crane.
Khaudum National Park
Please note: A minimum of two 4×4 vehicles per group are required for travel. There are two campsites in the park: Khaudum Camp in the north and Sikereti in the south. You are advised to bring your own water, wood, fuel and provisions. Fuel is only available at Bagani, Divundu and Rundu in the Kavango East Region to the north of the park and at Tsumkwe to the south.
Khaudum National Park is a densely wooded wilderness reserve that borders Botswana in the east and can only be explored in 4×4 vehicles. It is the only conservation area in Namibia where the northern Kalahari sandveld biome is protected. The Khaudum Game Park was proclaimed in 1989. In February 2007, the 3,842 km² reserve was given national park status and its name was adapted accordingly. The wilderness harbours several big game species and a multitude of birds. However, as a result of the dense vegetation, game viewing in the Khaudum requires considerable patience. Large animals found throughout the park are elephant and giraffe, while predators are lion, leopard, spotted hyaena, and side-striped and black-backed jackal.
African wild dogs also occur here. Game numbers vary considerably, as Khaudum is largely unfenced, enabling the animals to follow their natural migration routes. Khaudum is the stronghold of Namibia’s roan antelope. Other animals seen here are kudu, steenbok, gemsbok and blue wildebeest, while tsessebe, hartebeest, eland and reedbuck occur in the central areas. About 320 bird species have been recorded at Khaudum. Rare species include the Coppery-tailed and Senegal Coucal, Bradfield’s Hornbill, Rufous-bellied Tit, Black-faced Babbler and Sharp-tailed Starling.
Towns in the region
OTJIWARONGO
The town of Otjiwarongo, a Herero word meaning ‘a good place’, is an important centre for cattle ranching. It is situated about 250 km north of Windhoek, on a slope amid undulating plains.
The AfriCat Foundation, a non-profit organisation committed to the long-term conservation of Namibia’s large carnivores, is based at Okonjima, south of Otjiwarongo.
Also in the area, albeit east of Otjiwarongo, are the headquarters of the Cheetah Conservation Fund (CCF), an acclaimed organisation dedicated to saving the cheetah in the wild. Founded by Dr Laurie Marker in 1990, CCF has created a set of integrated programmes aimed at addressing the principal threats to the cheetah. Using this research as an underpinning, CCF has created a set of integrated programs that together address the threats both to the cheetah and its entire ecosystem, including human populations. CCF is open to the public every day of the year except Christmas Day. Visitors to CCF can enjoy a variety of activities and experiences, including:
- Centre Tours – a walking tour of the main facility and an introduction to the cheetahs, dogs and livestock that live at the centre.
- Cheetah Drive – a drive through the Elandsvreugde cheetah enclosure in search of some of the female cheetah who live there. An experienced guide will be on hand to explain how cheetah such as Samantha, Rosie and Solo came to be at CCF.
- Cheetah Runs – see the resident cheetahs stretch their legs on a lure course and experience the wonder of watching the world’s fastest land animal in action.
GROOTFONTEIN
The small town of Grootfontein serves the surrounding cattle-ranching community and is the last urban centre on the road to Rundu and the far northeast. Its history and character are personified in its coat of arms by depictions of the Hoba Meteorite, a palm tree, kudu, eland and cheetah. The Herero name of the town – Otjiwanda Tjongue – means leopard’s crest, and these secretive, nocturnal cats still occur in the surroundings. Due to the relatively high rainfall and large number of springs in the area, the San and Damara who lived here during the first half of the 19th century called the place Gei-/ous, which translates as Grootfontein (Afrikaans for large spring).
A historic fort from the German era, built in 1896, houses the Grootfontein Museum with its formidable mineralogical collection, ethnical display – including an extensive exhibition on the Himbas – implements for making ox wagons, utensils used in the Kavango Region and an exhibition featuring the German colonial Schutztruppe. The museum celebrated its 40th year in 2023. Café Vergissmeinnicht at the museum serves Brötchen with a variety of toppings, freshly baked cakes and tea and coffee.
Situated in the Grootfontein district, northeast of the homestead of the farm Keibib, is a large baobab tree that was declared a national monument because it was regarded as the largest of its kind in the commercial farming area. On the farm Rietfontein is the grave of Axel W Eriksson, well-known traveller, hunter and pioneer in South West Africa during the second half of the 19th century.
Grootfontein Museum
Tel (+264) 67 24 2456
OTAVI
The small towns of Otavi, Grootfontein and Tsumeb demarcate the so-called Maize Triangle, a relatively high- rainfall area with a flourishing agriculture sector centred mainly around the cultivation of maize and lucerne, some of which is under irrigation. While the town itself doesn’t offer much in terms of tourist attractions, the surroundings do. The Khorab Memorial – about 3 km from Otavi marks the spot where a ceasefire was signed at Khorab on 9 July, 1915 between the German Schutztruppe and South African Union forces, effectively ending the First World War in German South West Africa.
On the farm Ghaub, 35 km northeast of Otavi, a historical mission station built in 1895 was converted into Guest Farm Ghaub. There is much of interest in the surroundings, including the Ghaub Caves, remarkable for their stalactites and San paintings, which have been declared a national monument. The Fourways Stopover at the intersection leading to Tsumeb and Grootfontein hosts a petrol station, car wash, biltong shop and butchery, takeaway outlet, chicken- and-chips shop, pizzeria, fresh vegetable market, and a small nursery. There are also braai facilities for truckers, and the Camel Inn Restaurant and Bar, which is open seven days a week for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
TSUMKWE
The main town in Bushmanland – home to the San people – is Tsumkwe. It is reached by turning onto the C44, which is signposted on the B1, 55 km north of Grootfontein. A further 220 km along the C44 will get you to Tsumkwe. Further south and east is a vast expanse of wooded savannah where animals such as roan antelope and elephant roam. A distinctive tree found in the area is the baobab, easily recognised by its grotesquely fat trunk. Exclusive tours to introduce visitors to the San and their vanishing way of life are offered by several safari companies. Groups usually leave from Tsumkwe, visit Khaudum National Park, and are introduced to San communities such as the Ju/’Hoansi. Depending on the tour company, the San act as hosts, demonstrating skills such as tracking and food gathering, and sharing their knowledge of local customs and beliefs with their guests.
Most of the traditional San villages in the area offer activities for tourists as well as a community campsite. The activities include bush walks with San trackers, who demonstrate hunting, snaring and tracking skills, and how bush food is collected as well as dances and showing traditional San life. The general dealer at Tsumkwe can usually supply petrol and diesel, but this may not always be the case. If travelling towards Tsumkwe, be sure to rather fill up with petrol at Grootfontein and Tsumeb and also carry extra jerry cans of fuel. It is also recommended to stock up with provisions and to take extra water.
OKAKARARA COMMUNITY CULTURAL AND TOURISM CENTRE
Located in the small settlement of Okakarara, the Okakarara Community Cultural and Tourism Centre (OCCTC) was inaugurated in August 2004 during the 100-year commemoration of the Battle of Ohamakari, fought in the early liberation struggle of Namibia’s indigenous people.
The centre serves as a link between present and past, as well as between visitors and residents, and works towards enhancing a common future in and around the traditional lands of the Herero people. The site hosts a café and kiosk, a small souvenir shop and a dialogue circle for meetings and team-building exercises. Camping sites are available.
Tel (+264) 67 31 7603/7604
The San
The San (Bushmen), the earliest known inhabitants of Namibia, belong to the Khoesan people. Generally short in stature, they have light yellowish-brown skins, and while their language, which differs among the various groups, is characterised by numerous click sounds.
The San in Namibia are divided into five main groups, each with their own history, customs and language. What was formerly known as Bushmanland is the area in Namibia that is most frequently associated with the San people. The Ju/’hoansi of eastern Bushmanland have retained some of their traditional territories and still pursue their traditional way of life to some extent by gathering veld food and hunting with their traditional weapons. The Hai//om traditionally inhabited Etosha, as well as the Kunene and Western and Eastern Kavango regions. The !Kung, which had the widest traditional distribution in Namibia, include the Ju/’hoansi in Bushmanland where they have retained some access to their traditional territory. Bwabwata National Park forms part of the traditional core territory of the Kxoe-speaking San. These hunter-gatherers roamed the southern African plains for thousands of years in small nomadic groups. The wealth of rock paintings and engravings in mountains and hills throughout Namibia bear witness to their former extensive range. The oldest rock art dates back some 28 000 years.
The Brandberg has one of the largest concentrations of rock paintings in Africa, while Twyfelfontein, Namibia’s first World Heritage Site, has one of the richest collections of rock engravings on the continent. The San were systematically displaced and dispossessed of their traditional territories – first with the arrival of the Bantu-speaking people and later by the arrival of white settlers – and driven out to the most remote and harsh environments of southern Africa. Most of the San became farm workers, while large numbers were recruited for the South African Defence Force during the war of independence.
Beadwork made from ostrich eggshell, seeds, berries, roots and segments of porcupine quills have formed part of the San people’s traditional crafts for thousands of years. Glass beads were traded with other communities. Nowadays, plastic beads are also used. Functional items such as bags traditionally used for collecting wild fruit and berries are made from softened antelope skin. Traditional San crafts can be bought at the Namibia Craft Centre in Windhoek and at G!hunku Crafts situated next to the Nyae Nyae Conservancy office in Tsumkwe.
EXPERIENCING SAN CULTURE
The Living Museum of the Ju’Hoansi at Grashoek and the Living Museum of the Little Hunters provide fascinating insights into the history, culture and customs of the San people. TUCSIN Tsumkwe Lodge in Tsumkwe conducts a variety of half-day and full- day tours that feature aspects such as gathering of veld foods, hunting and traditional dancing. Other activities include village tours and half-day tours. Muramba Bushman Trails are conducted by Reinhard Friedrich on his farm near Tsintsabis. He has an outstanding knowledge of the Hai//om San and speaks their language fluently. Visitors can interact with the Ju/’Hoansi-San by participating in several programmes at Omandumba Guest Farm in the Erongo Mountains. Omandumba is renowned for its large number of rock art sites and variety of paintings.
The Ovaherero
The Herero are pastoral cattle-breeding people who migrated from the great lakes region to Namibia several centuries ago. They eventually settled at the Kunene River where they remained for about two centuries before splinter groups moved to central Namibia and eastwards, while the Ovahimba, Ovatjimba and Ovazemba remained in Kaokoland.
The Ovaherero of central and eastern Namibia are sub- divided into several groups who are associated with and pay allegiance to different royal houses headed by a chief. Followers can be distinguished by the colours of their flag which is displayed at ceremonial occasions. The followers of Chief Samuel Maherero formed the Red Flag organisation, while the western Zeraua Ovaherero are united under the White Flag and the Ovambanderu under the Green Flag. Another Ovaherero group are followers of the Kambazembi Royal House in the Waterberg area.
The Herero Uprising of 1904-1907 resulted in the death of tens of thousands of Ovaherero. Following the final battle between the Ovaherero and the German military at Hamakari on 11 August 1904, General Lothar von Trotha issued his infamous Vernichtungsbefehl (extermination order). The surviving Ovaherero fled into the wastelands of the Omaheke where tens of thousands died of hunger and thirst. Others fled to Bechuanaland – now Botswana. The Ovaherero and the Nama have been engaged in a protracted standoff with the German government for the past few years for reparations for what is considered the first genocide of the 20th century.
The distinctive 19th century style dresses (ohorokova) worn by Ovaherero women were introduced by the wives of the German missionaries in colonial times. Up to seven cotton petticoats are worn under the dresses of different colours and patterns – giving them their voluminous shape. The striking otjikaeva headdress replaced the traditional ekori headdress worn by adult women. It consisted of a three-pointed leather cap with a veil in front, usually worn rolled up. The two lateral points of the otjikaeva symbolise the horns of cattle, which play an important role in the Ovaherero culture, religion and economy.
Ovaherero crafts include traditional hand-sewn Herero dolls, leather purses, phone pouches and knife holsters, leather handbags and hand-crafted walking sticks.
EXPERIENCING OVAHERERO CULTURE
Red Flag Day, known as Otjiserandu in Otjiherero, is the best known of several ceremonies where the Ovaherero pay homage to their ancestors. Red Flag Day is commemorated at Okahandja on the weekend closest to 26 August – the date when the remains of Chief Samuel Maharero were reburied at the town in 1923. The Zeraua Herero commemorate their ancestors at Omaruru on the weekend preceding 10 October each year, while the Ovambanderu commemorate the death of their leader, Kahimemua Nguvauva, in June each year. He was executed by a firing squad at Okahandja in June 1896 after a failed rebellion against German rule in Gobabis.
The Okakarara Community Cultural and Tourism Centre has interesting exhibits of the culture of the Ovaherero as well as the 1904 war. There is also a campsite.
Top Adventures in the Area
Whipps Wilderness Safaris offers a 4-day slackpacking hike that covers 95 km from Tsumkwe through the Nyae Nyae pans and surrounding wilderness. Hikers get to experience the Kalahari sandveld with its majestic baobabs and stunning wildlife on foot.
Tel: +264 81 423 1961
Mail: ✉️
Accommodation
WATERBERG, KHAUDUM & NYAE NYAE
The region is characterised by lush bushland wilderness areas, for the true adventurer.
- Okonjima Nature Reserve
- Dornhügel Guestfarm
- Tsumkwe Country Lodge
- Waterberg Resort
- Cheetah Conservation Fund
Waterberg Resort
Waterberg Resort The Waterberg Plateau, towering some 200 metres above the surrounding landscape, is one of the most spectacular features of the region. Nestled along the base of the cliffs, amongst tall trees, Waterberg Resort offers comfortable premier bush chalets, two- and four-bed bush chalets and double rooms. Amenities include a restaurant, bar and kiosk,
Tsumkwe Country Lodge
Tsumkwe Country Lodge Tsumkwe is situated less than 60 km west of the Dobe border post to Botswana, and 256 km east of Grootfontein in the Otjozondjupa Region. The Nyae Nyae Conservancy, meaning ‘place without mountains, but rocky’, covers a protected area of 1 million hectares of unspoiled wilderness in the far eastern part of
Okonjima Nature Reserve
Okonjima Nature Reserve The place where people and wildlife connect Okonjima Nature Reserve is equally famed for frequent leopard, brown hyena and pangolin sightings on its safaris, as well as for the AfriCat Foundation. AfriCat’s mission has been to make significant contributions to conservation, while trying to ensure the survival of Namibia’s predators, endangered species
Dornhügel Guestfarm
Dornhügel Guestfarm In the North of Namibia, en route to the untouched Bushman country and the Caprivi region, and only three hours away from the Etosha Pan lies our guest farm Dornhügel. We offer you a unique combination of a guest farm with a homely atmosphere, stylish ambience and rustic farm life. Our eight spacious
Community Campsites in this Region
A community campsite is a type of camping facility managed and operated by local communities, often in collaboration with conservation organizations or tourism bodies. These campsites are designed to offer tourists a more immersive and culturally enriching experience, while also providing economic benefits to the locals.
- For those travelling to Bushmanland and the Tsumkwe area via Gam, Kaumbangere Restcamp, located 5 km south of Otjinene, makes for a good stopover.
- Southeast of Tsumkwe is the Djokhoe Camspite.
- Further east is the Makuri Camspite, situated in an area with several pans that attract birds and wildlife.
- The Living Museum of the Ju/’Hoansi San provides an opportunity to view and learn about this subgroup of the San.