BUCKET LIST FOR THIS REGION
- Stand on the edge of the spectacular Fish River Canyon
- Photograph a quiver tree at sunset
- Visit the historic ghost town of Kolmanskop
- Go for an excursion to Bogenfels
- Eat oysters in Lüderitz
Top attractions in the South
The country’s most spectacular geological phenomenon and the highlight of Namibia’s ‘Deep South’ is the Fish River Canyon. The famous ravine lies in the lower reaches of Namibia’s longest river, the Fish River. It took millions of years to evolve to its present shape – a massive 160 km long, up to 27 km wide and up to 550 metres deep.
Top tourist attractions in the region include the quaint coastal town of Lüderitz; Namibia’s most famous ghost town, Kolmanskop, a former diamond settlement that was deserted in the 1950s; the Tsau //Kaheb National Park (Sperrgebiet), which can be explored with concession-holding tour operators. Further east iare quiver tree forests, the Giant’s Playground and Brukkaros Mountain, the latter not an extinct volcano as is popularly thought but the remnants of a gaseous explosion many millions of years ago. Lying at the centre of this region is the unofficial capital of the south, Keetmanshoop – the gateway to many of these attractions. Further south lies the Fish River Canyon, the second largest canyon in the world.
QUIVER TREES AND THE GIANT’S PLAYGROUND
A subject much favoured by photographers, the Quiver Tree can be viewed across much of Namibia’s southern reaches. The Aloidendron dichotomum, also referred to by its Afrikaans name, kokerboom, reaches skywards with graphically forked branches. On average about 3–5 metres tall, the trees are rewarding subjects to photograph, especially at sunset or sunrise. They produce bright yellow flowers during the winter months, and their trunks are smooth and shiny with light silvery-grey bark, which peels and forms intricate rectangular and diamond-shaped patterns as the tree matures. About 14 km northeast of Keetmanshoop, you will find the Giant’s Playground, an impressive jumble of massive dolerite boulders between 160 million and 180 million years old. Wandering through the maze of boulders is an interesting excursion, but care must be taken not to become lost in the extensive rocky labyrinth.
NAUTE DAM
Some 50 km southwest of Keetmanshoop en route to Seeheim, is Namibia’s third- largest water reservoir, the Naute Dam, fed by the Löwen River, a tributary of the Fish. Surrounded by flat-topped ridges and large rust-coloured boulders, the area is scenically attractive and harbours a surprising variety of birds, including some aquatic species. The Naute Recreation Resort was proclaimed in 1989. The Naute Project is an irrigation scheme fed by the dam for the production of white maize, dates, grapes, prickly pears and pomegranates.
BRUKKAROS MOUNTAIN
About 130 km northwest of Keetmanshoop en route to the small settlement of Berseba, where a mission station was established in 1850, is the conspicuous Brukkaros Mountain. In a landscape almost devoid of vegetation, this mass of dark-coloured rock rises abruptly from a vast, sun-scorched plain. The turnoff to the base of the mountain, accessible only with 4×4 vehicles, is south of Tses. A footpath leads from the end of the road via the eroded southern rim to the mountain. The footpath was built when the Smithsonian Institute installed a solar telescope in a tunnel on the crater’s southwestern rim in 1929 to determine the amount of energy the earth received from the sun. It closed down two years later. At the turn of the century the German authorities maintained a heliograph station on the eastern rim of Brukkaros. A VHF radio mast was also placed on the northern rim. Brukkaros is not an extinct volcano, as its shape would suggest, but the eroded remnants of a pile of fragmented rock produced by a gigantic gaseous explosion some 84 million years ago. At its highest point it is about 1 580 metres, the mountainous ridge surrounding a deep crater of almost 2 000 metres in diameter, with a flat, rock-littered floor. The mountain’s vernacular name, the Nama word Geitsigubeb, refers to its resemblance to a large leather ‘trouser apron’ worn traditionally by Khoekhoe women
Fish River Canyon and /Ai-/Ais Richtersveld Transfrontier Park
The /Ai-/Ais Hot Springs and Fish River Canyon were first proclaimed a game park in 1968. In 1989 the Huns Mountains complex west of the canyon was added ‘to these features’ to form a single conservation entity. In 2003 the long-term conservation objective to manage the Huns Mountains and /Ai-/Ais Game Park jointly with the Richtersveld National Park in South Africa as one integrated Transfrontier Conservation Area (TFCA) became a reality when the /Ai-/Ais-Richtersveld Transfrontier Park became Namibia’s first transfrontier conservation area. The attraction of this rugged wilderness is its isolated and otherworldly landscape, and its wealth of interesting xerophytic plants, such as the halfmens or elephant’s trunk, Pachypodium namaquanum. Geologically and botanically the area is similar to South Africa’s Richtersveld south of the Orange River. Eroded over many millennia, the Fish River Canyon is the second-largest canyon in the world. Set in a harsh, stony plain, dotted with drought-resistant succulents such as the distinctive quiver tree or kokerboom, Aloidendron dichotomum, and Euphorbia gregaria, the canyon is a spectacular natural phenomenon that took hundreds of millions of years to form. While its full length is 160 km – the width is up to 27 km and the depth up to 550 metres – its most spectacular section is the 56-km stretch downstream of the northernmost viewpoint. Because the river flows intermittently, there is always water in some of the pools, except in very dry years. Containing smallmouth and largemouth yellowfish, sharptooth catfish, tilapia and common carp, the pools are also frequented by the water monitor or leguan. Baboon, rock hyrax, ground squirrel and klipspringer are often seen in the canyon, while the presence of leopard and mountain zebra is indicated by tracks left at waterholes. Kudu inhabit the densely vegetated lower reaches north of /Ai-/Ais. An interesting variety of birds, such as the Olive Thrush, Cape Robin-chat and African Black Duck, are found in the canyon.
FISH RIVER VIEWPOINT
The viewpoint overlooking the spectacular canyon landscape was completed in 2010. A series of interpretive information posters at the viewpoint provides details on the flora, fauna and geology of the canyon, the history of the area, the human footprint, the transfrontier process and the Fish River Canyon hiking trail.
Lüderitz
One of Namibia’s truly unique destinations is the coastal town of Lüderitz in the so-called Deep South. Originally named Angra Pequena (small bay) by the famous Portuguese explorer Bartholomeu Dias in 1487, the settlement was renamed Lüderitz in honour of its founder Adolf Lüderitz in 1886. Located directly on the shores of Lüderitz Bay facing the Atlantic Ocean, Lüderitz forms a barrier between the towering coastal dunes of Namib-Naukluft National Park directly to the north, and the unforgiving rocky coastline to the south. The town has a fishing harbour surrounded by early 20th century German colonial buildings. Ten kilometres to the east the world-renowned ghost town, Kolmanskop, affords you the opportunity to gain a spellbinding insight into what life was once like in this former diamond settlement. Other activities include bird-watching such as at Halifax Island to view Namibia’s largest colony of African Penguins from a boat. Set aside a morning or afternoon to explore the sheltered coves of the Lüderitz Peninsula, Shark Island, Grosse Bucht, Sturmvogel Bucht and Dias Point where the Portuguese navigator Bartholomeu Dias erected a stone cross in July 1488. Lüderitz is especially famous for its delicious fresh seafood: west coast rock lobster (called crayfish locally), oysters and the much sought- after delicacy – abalone (perlemoen variety). The town celebrates its rich seafood culture with an annual Lüderitz Crayfish Festival. The Ombepo Wind Farm east of Lüderitz is Namibia’s first wind farm.
LÜDERITZ WATERFRONT
A number of exciting modern developments have taken place in the centre of Lüderitz. One of them is the Lüderitz Waterfront Development which currently includes the harbour square that hosts the annual Crayfish Festival. The harbour square consists of shops, restaurants and coffee shops, offices and apartments. The Yacht Club is also at the Waterfront. A major project set to open in the last quarter of 2024 is the largest maritime museum complex in Africa. This multi-million-Namibia-dollar attraction will display Namibia’s rich maritime history, geology and marine fauna and flora. It will be housed in the Lüderitz Waterfront complex at the historical power station located directly on Lüderitz Bay. The impressive modernised building is currently home to a restaurant, offices, gym, conference facilities, auditorium, a large promenade and a satellite campus of the Namibia University of Science and Technology. Lüderitz is easily accessible by good roads from Windhoek (685 km tar), Keetmanshoop (340 km tar) and the Fish River Canyon (480 km from Ai-Ais Resort – 184 gravel and 295 tar), and with FlyNamibia on a direct flight between Windhoek and Lüderitz airport.
DISTINCTIVE ARCHITECTURE
Among the most striking architectural attractions are the Goerkehaus and Felsenkirche (rock church). Both adorn the slopes of Diamond Mountain. The church with its beautiful stained-glass windows is truly unique, as all building materials – even the sand – were shipped from Germany. In the ‘old town’ are the houses of former mining magnates and prominent businessmen, including Kreplin House and Troost House. The Krabbenhöft & Lampe Building was erected for a trading business during the period of economic prosperity that followed the discovery of diamonds. The Deutsche Afrika Bank is part of the historic street view of Bismarck Street, one of the oldest roads in town. In Berg Street, in the historic core of the town, is a complex of residences built during the diamond boom. Other noteworthy structures are the old post office, the former German school, the Lesehalle and the Turnhalle.
ACTIVITIES IN AND AROUND LÜDERITZ
Excursions from Lüderitz range from guided overnight self- drive 4×4 trips into the Namib Sand Sea and guided day trips to Elizabeth Bay, Pomona and the Bogenfels, to exploring the Lüderitz Peninsula. Attractions on the peninsula include the abandoned whaling station, WWI entrenchments, Dias Point, secluded bays and beaches and the old lighthouse. Sightings of Cape fur seals, Heaviside’s dolphins and, in season, Humpback and Southern Right whales, as well as a variety of seabirds are possible on a catamaran cruise. Deep-sea angling, private charters and bird watching are other possibilities. The large Lüderitz second lagoon, with Lüderitz’s famous strong winds, offers windsurfers and kitesurfers exciting sailing opportunities throughout the year – this is a real sailing paradise with no crowds and plenty of opportunities to test your skills.
Windsurfing and speed sailing are two activities that draw crowds to the small town during October/November for the annual Lüderitz Speed Challenge. Excellent wind conditions and a specially made 500 m long canal attract the world’s best kitesurfers and windsurfers to compete for the top world ranking in speed sailing. It is observed by the World Sailing Speed Record Council (WSSRC) and the International Sailing Federation (ISAF). More than 100 national and 17 world records have been achieved since the first event in 2007 and Lüderitz has become synonymous with speed sailing records. Known as the pinnacle of speed windsurfing spots in the world, the Lüderitz Speed Challenge is set up to chase world speed records: warm winds gain momentum on their way through the coastal hills of the Namib Desert and are accelerated to incredibly high speeds by thermal atmospheric pressure when they reach the cold waters of the Atlantic Ocean. Statistically the wind blows at 35 knots and more at least 3 times a week during the event, often reaching 40-45 knots and sometimes even 50 to 65 knots (119 km/h). If you are in Lüderitz during the annual speed challenge it is definitely worth your while to see these world-class speed sailors in action. www.luderitz-speed.com
BEACHES, BAYS AND BIRDS
The Lüderitz Peninsula is characterised by numerous bays, lagoons and unspoilt stretches of beach. At Diaz Point a replica of Bartolomeu Dias’ padrão can be seen, while a memorial on Shark Island commemorates Captain Cornelius Fredericks. The popular local beaches are Grosse Bucht, Sturmvogelbucht and Agate Beach, the latter with barbecue facilities, a long sandy beach and good bathing opportunities. The remains of an old Norwegian whaling station can be viewed at Sturmvogelbucht. The Lüderitz area is home to a wide variety of aquatic birds. Large numbers of flamingos, cormorants and seagulls inhabit the shallow lagoons. When sailing in the bay, seals and dolphins can be seen playing in the water. For anglers, favoured species are galjoen, steenbras, dassie and rock lobster. It is not unusual to see an occasional jackal or brown hyena trotting along the beach, or a group of springbok close to the sea. An attractive plant in the surroundings is the Bushman’s candle, its pink flowers contrasting vividly against the black rock. Unusual species of dwarf succulents grow in the area, such as the small but intriguing lithops.
Kolmanskop
Namibia’s most famous ghost town, Kolmanskop, is situated in Tsau //Khaeb National Park about 10 km inland from Lüderitz. It was named after transport driver Johnny Coleman, who lived in the tiny settlement of Aus at the turn of the century. During a fierce sandstorm he was forced to abandon his ox wagon on the small incline from where Kolmanskop can be seen. It stood there for a while, giving rise to the name Colemanshügel, which eventually became Kolmanskop. In 1908, the railway worker Zacharias Lewala found a sparkling stone in the sand he was shovelling at Grasplatz railway station nearby Kolmanskop. His supervisor, August Stauch, was convinced he had found a diamond. When this was confirmed, the news spread like wildfire, sparking a frantic diamond rush and causing fortune hunters to converge on Kolmanskop in droves. It soon became a bustling little centre, featuring a butchery, bakery, furniture factory, soda-water and lemonade plant.
By 1915, Kolmanskuppe was one of the richest towns in the world with its own millionaire’s row, large outdoor salt- water swimming pool, bowling alley, hospital, entertainment hall and ice-making factory. The first X-ray machine in the southern hemisphere was introduced here, as well as the first tram in Africa. Today, Namibia’s diamond-mining operations take place offshore in the Oranjemund area (on the border with South Africa). The development of Kolmanskop reached its pinnacle in the 1920s, with approximately 300 German adults, 40 of their children and 800 Owambo contract workers living there. Despite, or probably because of, the isolation and bleakness of the surrounding desert, Kolmanskop developed into a lively little haven of German culture, providing entertainment and recreation to suit the requirements of the affluent, for whom large, elegant houses were built. However, when richer diamond deposits were discovered further south, operations were moved to Oranjemund.
Today, the crumbling ruins of the ghost town bear little resemblance to its former glory. The stately homes, their grandeur now scoured and demolished by desert winds, are gradually enveloped by sand. In 1980 the mining company CDM (now Namdeb) restored a number of the buildings and established a museum for tourist viewing. Permits are needed to enter Kolmanskop, which is open daily from 08:00 to 13:00 (longer for visitors who have a photo permit). Join a scheduled tour departing from the Main Building (where the Coffee Shop is situated) or obtain a Voice Map recording online and take the tour at your own pace. Permits can be obtained either online, directly at the Kolmanskop entrance gate or at Desert Deli in Lüderitz (Corner of Bahnhof & Moltke Streets). Guided tours take place on Mondays to Saturdays at 09:30 and 11:00, and on Sundays & Public Holidays at 10:00. A guided tour takes 45-60 minutes and is offered in English and German. Groups can join the normal guided tour, or book a private tour which can be arranged for a different time (min. 6 participants, pre- booking required). A “day pass” gives you access between 6:00 and 19:00 and is ideal for those wanting to take pictures at sunrise and sunset. See www.kolmanskuppe.com for more information.
Aus
An almost-forgotten hamlet on the north-south and east- west crossroads between the Maltahöhe–Rosh Pinah and Keetmanshoop–Lüderitz routes is the small town of Aus. The settlement has several historical buildings and traces of crucial historical events, including the remains of the prisoner-of-war camp where over 1 500 German prisoners were kept after the surrender of the German forces in 1915. Aus is also a starting point for viewing the well-known wild horses of Garub and a trading centre for the karakul farmers of the surroundings. Aus is located at the meeting point of three main ecological biomes – the Succulent Karoo, Nama Karoo and Dune Namib. In terms of natural assets this makes Aus one of the most diverse places in Namibia. Over 500 plant species have been recorded in the surroundings, representing nearly one fifth of Namibia’s entire flora. Some species are restricted to the granite koppies around Aus, and grow nowhere else on earth. The sporadic occurrence of winter and summer rains, and diverse landforms including granite outcrops, sand-and-gravel plains and riverbeds, contribute to this extraordinary natural diversity. As an outpost of the Succulent Karoo biome, the area yields flower displays that rival those of Namaqualand a few weeks after significant rains. These could occur almost any time of the year due to the transitional nature of the Aus environment between the two major climatic regimes in Southern Africa. Good times to view the plant life are from May to June and from August to September. Aus is also a rewarding spot for birding. Namib endemics such as the Namib Dune Lark can be seen here, as well as a variety of other larks, raptors and shrikes, in addition to the regular inhabitants of the marginal desert areas, such as Ludwig’s Bustard, Rüppel’s Korhaan and Namaqua Sandgrouse.
Tsau //Khaeb National Park
Sperrgebiet National Park, now renamed Tsau //Khaeb National Park (Tsau meaning Soft and //Khaeb meaning Sand), was proclaimed in 2008. While it is still largely undeveloped and much of it remains inaccessible to visitors, sections of this wild landscape can be explored with registered concession holders. The Sperrgebiet (forbidden territory) covers 26 000 km² of globally important semi-desert. It forms part of the Succulent Karoo biome that extends into Namibia from South Africa. With its profusion of succulent species, unrivalled anywhere else on the planet in terms of endemism and quantity, conservation scientists have classified this area as one of the world’s top 35 Biodiversity Hotspots. To qualify for hot-spot status, an area must contain at least 1 500 endemic vascular plants (0.5% of the planet’s total) and must have lost at least 70% of its primary vegetation. Prior to the establishment of Tsau //Khaeb National Park, a mere 11% of the surviving Succulent Karoo, which is home to 2 439 endemic plants, was in protected areas. Now, following the proclamation of the park, 90% of this zone is protected. Because the Sperrgebiet, due to its diamond wealth, has been off limits to the public for close to a century, the habitat is largely untouched and pristine, making a visit to the park a truly unique wilderness experience.
EXPLORING TSAU //KHAEB NATIONAL PARK AND NAMIB-NAUKLUFT NATIONAL PARK
To protect the fragile environment, visitors can only explore the park by joining one of the tours operated by tourism concession holders. Areas open to tourists include the mysterious ghost towns of Elizabeth Bay, Pomona (noteworthy for enduring the highest average wind speeds in southern Africa), Bogenfels Rock Arch, and the Märchental – the famous ‘Fairy Tale Valley’ – where diamonds were once so abundant that they could be picked up in handfuls from the surface as they lay gleaming in the moonlight. Guided day and overnight drives to Dagger Rocks and Douglas Bay, north of Lüderitz, are also conducted, while the Roter Kamm, a meteorite impact crater, which previously has been inaccessible to tourists, is now also accessible. Guided activities offered further south in the adventure zone of Oranjemund include 4×4 dune driving and sandboarding, and kayaking on the Orange River. Lüderitz is also the starting point of guided 4×4 trips into Namib-Naukluft National Park. Options include trips to Saddle Hill, an old mining camp and Spencer Bay. Longer, six-day trips to long-abandoned mining camps, Conception Bay, the wreck of the Eduard Bohlen, Sandwich Harbour and Walvis Bay are also conducted. Participants drive in their own vehicles and are accompanied by a tour guide and a backup vehicle with the kitchen equipment and meals.
ANCIENT SHIPWRECK DISCOVERED
In April 2008, a shipwreck was discovered on the southern Sperrgebiet coast with priceless treasure in the form of gold coins and hundreds of almost mint-condition silver pieces. Other artefacts retrieved were fifty ivory tusks, thousands of Portuguese and Spanish gold and silver coins minted in late 1400 and early 1500, and pewterware. Astrolabes were the only navigational tools found on the wreck. Astrolabes were used to determine how far north or south you had sailed, although what doomed this ship still remains a mystery. In all likelihood, it ran aground due to bad weather, as this stretch of coast is notorious for fierce, disorienting storms. Unofficial estimates are that the gold coins alone are worth N$ 16 million. The origin of this find also remains a mystery, although informed sources speculate the ship could have been one of a fleet of four small, fast Portuguese ships – led by Bartholomeu Dias in the 15th century – that came to grief during a storm off the Cape of Good Hope in May 1500. Dias’s caravel was part of a fleet of a dozen ships that set sail from Portugal in early 1500 under the command of the legendary sailor Pedro Alvarez Cabral, who stumbled on Brazil after becoming lost at sea. The discovery was made inside Namdeb’s Mining Area 1, which is accessible only with permits issued jointly by the Ministry of Mines and Energy and the government’s Protective Resources Unit. Namibian heritage laws on such discoveries automatically give ownership of the treasure to the State.
More towns in the South
SEEHEIM
Founded in 1896 as a base for the German Schutztruppe, and serving as an overnight stop for visitors travelling by rail to Lüderitz, the settlement doesn’t offer much apart from the hotel. Seeheim was a booming little town during the 40s and 50s, of even greater prominence than Keetmanshoop. In the late 50s it started falling into decline and in 1974, the last remaining business – the Seeheim Hotel – was forced to close down. After standing empty for 30 years, the hotel is once again open for business.
ORANJEMUND
Known as the ‘town built on diamonds’ where jackal, ostrich and gemsbok wander the streets amongst the local inhabitants, Oranjemund was officially granted local- authority status in August 2011. The long-standing plan to proclaim Oranjemund as an open town came to fruition following the proclamation of a 90-km access road linking Rosh Pinah to Oranjemund as a national road. The town was previously owned by Namdeb. Oranjemund can lay claim to being the only town surrounded completely by Tsau //Khaeb National Park. In its heyday, when Oranjemund boasted 15 000 inhabitants, the mining giant DeBeers provided luxuries for its employees, such as one of the best 18-hole golf courses in Namibia. Fishing and birding are other popular pastimes, as the town is located at the Orange River mouth, a RAMSAR wetland. The Jasper House Museum in 7th Avenue has an interesting photographic display depicting the town’s history, mining at Oranjemund and the desert environment, as well as numerous historical artefacts. As of October 2017, visitors to the town no longer need to to apply for an entry permit prior to their visit.
ORANJEMUND BORDER CONTROL
Oranjemund Border control is situated between Namibia and South Africa. Opposite of Oranjemund on the Namibian side lies Alexander Bay in South Africa.
A single paved carriageway leads towards the border post crossing at the bridge between Alexander Bay and Oranjemund.
BETHANIE
The historical town of Bethanie, one of the oldest settlements in the country, lies west of Keetmanshoop. It can be visited from the road leading to Lüderitz. A significant historical event took place in Bethanie in 1883 when the first recorded deed of sale was signed at the house of the 19th century Nama Chief, Joseph Fredericks, for the land around what was to become known as Lüderitz. The house, built in the same year, is a national monument. Buildings of historical interest in Bethanie are the Evangelical Lutheran Church Complex, comprising Schmelenhaus, built in 1814 and believed to be the oldest existing building in the country, the original mission church and the adjacent graveyard. The twin-towered church, one of the first churches in Namibia, was built by Rhenish missionary Hermann Kreft and consecrated in June 1859.
HELMERINGHAUSEN
Although the small settlement of Helmeringhausen doesn’t offer much in terms of tourism it is a nice stopover seemingly in the middle of nowhere. Founded during the German colonial era as a farm by a member of the Schutztruppe, the Helmeringhausen area later became famous for the breeding of karakul sheep. On the farm Mooifontein is a cemetery containing graves of German soldiers who were killed during the Nama uprisings against German colonial rule (1903–1907), as well as some civilian graves. The farm was formerly a German military post known as Chamis.
KEETMANSHOOP
The main centre and focal point of the scenic and historic attractions in the south is its ‘capital’ Keetmanshoop. Founded in 1860 by the Rhenish Mission Society, the town still retains vestiges of its original German buildings, and some dating back to the arrival of the first Europeans, who trekked across the Orange River to trade, hunt and explore the land. The first of these expeditions was in 1791. It was led by Hendrik Hop, who trekked as far as Hainabis on the Löwen River, about 12 km from Keetmanshoop. In 1866 preacher John Schröder of the German Missionary Society built a shelter at Keetmanshoop from which to operate. It is said the two acacias he used to support the shelter are still alive and well. Schröder approached the rich industrialist, Johan Keetman, chairman of the society, for funds to build a church and a dwelling for himself and his family. Keetman donated 2,000 German marks for the church and was rewarded for his generosity by having the settlement named after him, although he never saw the town himself. The first version of the Rhenish Mission Church built by Johan Schröder was swept away in 1890 by floodwaters of the Swartmodder River. It was then rebuilt on higher ground, completed in 1895, and used as a church until 1930. It is now a museum with displays depicting the colourful past of the region. Eagle’s Monument, built between 1897–1907 in remembrance of the casualties in the battles fought with the Bondelswarts and the Namas and declared a National Monument in 1966, can be viewed in the Garden of Remembrance. A former officers’ barracks built in German colonial times, the Turnverein Gut Heil has been converted into tourist accommodation. Much of the German architectural style was retained, as well as unexpected Jewish motifs in the shape of the Star of David, lending an interesting detail to the tall windows of Schützenhaus. The previous owner transferred the windows to the house when the old Jewish Synagogue in Keetmanshoop was demolished. The Southern Tourism Forum (STF) operates from an information office in the centre of Keetmanshoop. The building in which it is housed was inaugurated in 1910 as Kaiserliches Postamt (Imperial Post Office) and is a national monument. Also in the Keetmanshoop vicinity is the site of the former monolith Mukurob, a relic of erosion also referred to as the Finger of God, which collapsed in December 1988. Today, only the base and part of the neck are still in evidence.
QUIVERTREE DOLERITE PARK
Forty-two kilometres northeast of Keetmanshoop on the road to Koës is the Mesosaurus Fossil Site & Quivertree Dolerite Park. Father and son, Giel and Hendrik Steen- kamp, happened on a rock with an imprint of a reptile’s skeleton on their farm, which geologists informed them was a fossil of the early saurian Mesosaurus tenuidens, a predecessor of the dinosaurs. They unearthed further fossils in the layers of mudstone, and, having gained permission from the National Heritage Board, started taking tourists to the site in 2000. Tourist facilities are provided on site. Close by is a quiver tree ‘forest’ and a ‘singing rock’. A guided tour takes 90–120 minutes. For those who prefer to explore on their own, there are two marked trails.
WARMBAD
For most Namibians the small settlement of Warmbad in southern Namibia is a mere dot on the map. However, in historical times Warmbad was a prominent place in the country. Two hundred years ago the Albrecht brothers, Abraham and Christian, as representatives of the London Missionary Association, settled in Warmbad to introduce Christianity to local inhabitants. By then, in addition to its Nama residents, including Bondelswarts people who were farming in the surroundings, the settlement was an important stopover for big-game hunters, traders and adventurers en route to and from South Africa. Thus, although these activities started as early as 1760, the Albrecht brothers are regarded as the founders of Warmbad. Of great historical interest in Warmbad is the site where the Bondelswarts leader, Jan Christiaan Abraham, was shot and killed by German district officer Lieutenant Jobst when resisting arrest in 1903. The Bondelswarts retaliated by shooting Lieutenant Jobst and a non-commissioned officer, an incident that gave rise to the Bondelswarts taking up arms against the Germans. Also of interest in Warmbad is the stone entrance built between 1907 and 1913 as a gateway to the German fort. Completed around 1895, the fort with its single tower was enclosed by a stone wall. Although the fort no longer exists, the remains of the Schutztruppe stables with their beautiful stone cribs can still be seen. Nearby is the old prison building with its two cells, still in relatively good condition. To appreciate the historic attractions offered by Warmbad, it is best to engage the services of a guide. The hot-water springs at Warmbad were discovered by the Bondelswarts people more than 200 years ago when searching for water and grazing for their livestock. Another site of interest is that of a commemorative stone erected in 1929 for Reverend Edward Cook, the second Wesleyan missionary to arrive in the area. The community-based Warmbad Museum is the result of a cooperation between the Warmbad Community-Based Tourism Enterprise (WCBTE) and the History Department of the University of Namibia. It houses pictures and items that are unique to Namibia. Other sites of historical interest are old German and South African graves, the Lutheran Church of 1805 and the Roman Catholic mission building.
The Nama
NAMA CULTURE
Nama people have a natural talent for music, poetry and prose. Numerous proverbs, riddles, tales and poems have been handed down orally from generation to generation. Praise poems range from impromptu love songs and praise of heroic figures to songs of the animals and plants in their environment. They are excellent dancers and the Nama Stap is without doubt one of the best known dances in Namibia. Nama women are highly skilled in needlework. Their embroidery and appliqué work, regarded as a traditional art form, consists of brightly coloured motifs inspired by their rural environment and lifestyles. The colourful patchwork dresses worn by the women are particularly typical of their traditional clothing. Kaross floor rugs and blankets made from small-stock and antelope skins are a speciality of the south.
The Nama people, who live mainly in southern and central Namibia, are light in complexion and short in stature, and their language has four distinctive click sounds. Eight groups are the descendants of Khoikhoi pastoralists who migrated from northern Botswana westwards along the Orange River some 3,000 years ago. As they migrated further west, the increasingly arid environment forced them to split into two groups. One group settled south of the Orange River in what became known as Little Namaqualand, while the other group crossed the river and settled in what became known as Great Namaqualand. According to oral tradition, another group, the Topnaars, migrated from the north and settled in the Walvis Bay area and the lower Kuiseb Valley, while some remained at Sesfontein. The original migrants were later joined by five groups of Khoikhoi people who migrated from the Cape colony northwards across the Orange River in the 18th century. Collectively known as the Oorlams, these groups wandered northwards ahead of the white trekboers with whom they had contact. As a result they spoke Dutch and as they owned horses and guns they launched raids against the other Nama groups with devastating effect. Thousands of Nama died in battle and in concentration camps after Captain Hendrik Witbooi declared war against the German colonial government on 5 October 1904. Witbooi was killed in battle on 25 October 1905, but the Nama continued to engage the German Schutztruppe with guerilla war tactics until the end of 1906. After the war ended, the Nama lost most of the land they had occupied.
Top adventures in the South
HIKING
The Fish River Canyon ranks as one of Southern Africa’s top trails. The 85-km hike is usually completed in four or five days, but it is no walk in the park. Following the course of the Fish River, the terrain varies from deep, loose sand and stretches of boulders that have to be negotiated to seemingly endless tracts of round river stones. There are no set overnight stops and no facilities along the trail which ends at Ai-Ais Resort.
At Klein Aus Vista near Aus, visitors have a choice of 6 self-guided trails. Routes range from an easy to moderate 4.1 km to a 20 km hike graded as intermediate to advanced, depending on your level of fitness.
WATER ADVENTURES
Hardap Dam north of Mariental, Von Bach Dam near Okahandja and Naute Dam west of Keetmanshoop are popular dams with freshwater angling enthusiasts. Largemouth and smallmouth bass, yellowfish, carp, Mozambique tilapia and barbel are the most commonly caught species. Tour operators can put visitors in touch with clubs and expert fishermen. It is the perfect conditions at Lüderitz that attract kite surfers and windsurfers from around the world to this southern coastal town where the world-speed record for kite surfing is challenged annually in November. The Orange River has been a popular destination for canoeing trips which are offered by several companies. Trips lasting between four and six days start a few kilometres downstream of Noordoewer and end at Aussenkehr or continue some 20 km further.
Accommodation
DEEP SOUTH, COASTAL AND THE FISH RIVER CANYON
Namibia’s southern reaches with its dramatic vistas and endless horizons will warm wandering hearts and intrigue any traveller.
- Shark Island Resort
- Hobas Lodge
- /Ai-/Ais Hot Springs Spa
- Boplaas Campsite
- Fish River Lodge
- Bahnhof Hotel Aus
- Aus Self-Catering Accommodation
Shark Island
Shark Island is located on the Shark Peninsula in Lüderitz Bay in southwest Namibia. The resort overlooks the bay, town and harbour. Onlookers can spot the seals and pelicans that frequent the rocky areas around the site. The resort is an excellent central point for exploring the town of Lüderitz, the famous Kolmanskop Ghost Town,
Kalahari Game Lodge
Kalahari Game Lodge is a luxury private game farm situated next to the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park on the south-eastern border of Namibia. It is an oasis surrounded by red dunes and home to the free-roaming Kalahari lion. The lodge comprises of eight luxury chalets and for the more adventurous six spaciously set apart campsites along
Hobas Lodge
Hobas Lodge is located in the /Ai-/Ais Richtersveld Transfrontier Park, near the Fish River Canyon, one of the largest canyons in the world and the main attraction in southern Namibia. Hobas Lodge sits at the start of the 90 km long Fish River Canyon Hiking Trail, ranked one of the best hiking trails in southern
Fish River Lodge
On the Edge of Eternity The only lodge situated directly on the rim of Namibia’s Fish River Canyon, the world’s second largest canyon. Set amongst ancient “kokerbome” (quiver trees) the uniquely designed lodge has breathtaking views of the canyon from sunrise to sunset. The 45 000 hectare Canyon Nature Park includes 75km of river frontage
Boplaas Campsite
Boplaas Campsite is a popular camping destination situated on the banks of the Orange River. Visitors can enjoy the natural beauty of the surrounding area while camping in this peaceful and serene location. One of the most popular activities at Boplaas Campsite is kayaking, and the Orange River provides an excellent opportunity for this water
Bird’s Accommodation
Situated in the centre of Keetmanshoop are the gracious Bird’s Mansions Hotel with 26 rooms and the clean and fresh Bird’s Nest Guesthouse with 10 rooms. All the rooms are air-conditioned and have bathrooms en suite, direct-dial telephones, free Wi-Fi and television (DStv – five channels). Both establishments have secure parking and provide a laundry
Bahnhof Hotel Aus
The historic Bahnhof Hotel presents itself in a modern, elegant format, combining rich history and traditional comfort with excellent service and à la carte cuisine. Light lunches, daily fresh bread and cakes from the kitchen are best enjoyed on the sundeck. 26 stylishly refurbished double rooms with en-suite facilities, including a 4-bed family unit and
/Ai-/Ais Hot Springs Spa
/Ai-/Ais Hot Springs Spa offers comfortable accommodation in 36 exquisitely appointed double rooms facing either the Fish River or the mountains, all with direct access to the indoor spa pools, and seven self-catering chalets. Visitors can enjoy the therapeutic powers of the thermal springs in the central indoor spa or choose to luxuriate in the
Community Campsites in this region
A community campsite is a type of camping facility managed and operated by local communities, often in collaboration with conservation organizations or tourism bodies. These campsites are designed to offer tourists a more immersive and culturally enriching experience, while also providing economic benefits to the locals.
- Camp at Brukkaros near Berseba in beautiful mountain surroundings. The facilities are basic, so be self-sufficient.
- Situated in a scenic rocky mountain area, the sites at Snyfontein Camp overlook an attractive section of the Fish River.
- ≠Nudi Campsite is set amongst quiver trees and dolerite rock formations in the !Knob !Naub Conservancy.
- Situated northeast of Tses is Ganigobes Campsite, a basic facility with views over a riverbed.
