BUCKET LIST FOR THIS REGION
- Learn about the Ovahimba culture at the Ovahimba Living Museum.
- Take a sunset walk to view the Epupa Falls.
- Tick the Rufous-tailed Palm Thrush and the Cinderella Waxbill at Epupa.
- Set off in search of the desert-dwelling elephants.
- Overnight at one of the community campsites.
- Visit the Ruacana Falls when the Kunene River is in flood.
- Marvel at the Fairy Circles of the Marienfluss.
- Search for the mysterious Lone Men
Top attractions
Kaokoland extends from the Kunene River southwards across a sparsely populated and harsh environment down to the Hoanib River. The area holds a special allure for lovers of remote and wild places to negotiate its challenging and rugged terrain in four-wheel-drive vehicles. Attractions include desert-adapted elephants, scattered Himba settlements, the impressive Epupa Falls, off-the-beaten-track destinations such as the expansive Marienfluss and Hartmann valleys, the wild and beautiful Khowarib Schlucht, and Swartbooisdrift, site of a Dorslandtrekker monument.
EPUPA FALLS
With its scenically beautiful surroundings, Epupa is one of Namibia’s prime tourist destinations. The falls are a series of cascades where the Kunene River drops a total of 60 metres over a distance of about 1.5 km, separating into a multitude of channels and forming a myriad of rock pools. Enhanced by richly coloured rock walls, a variety of trees including wild figs, baobabs and waving makalani palms, spectacular sunsets and perennially flowing waters, the Epupa area offers much to see, do and experience.
Bird-watching is rewarding, especially for the rare Rufous- tailed Palm Thrush. Also seen are Bee-eaters, African Fish Eagles, Kingfishers ranging from the Giant to the tiny Malachite Kingfisher species, Rosy-faced Lovebirds, Paradise Flycatchers, Turacos, Bulbuls, Hornbills and Rollers.
Scattered settlements of Himba are an especially interesting feature of the area.
Although officially declared as a town only at the end of 2000, Opuwo has long acted as the capital of the Kunene Region, and as the gateway to Epupa Falls and the land of the Himba people. The town itself doesn’t offer much for the tourist, except in the form of hand-made jewellery and other crafts, which can be found at street stalls and at the open market. The Kunene Craft Centre is also a good place to stock up on souvenirs from the area. Opuwo has well-stocked grocery shops, Internet cafés, a post office, banks, fuel stations, a hospital, and everything else a traveller might need.
Opuwo is connected to Kamanjab and Windhoek by a tarred road that is in excellent condition. There’s an airfield in town, managed by the Opuwo Country Hotel.
RUACANA FALLS
At 120 metres high and 700 metres wide, the Ruacana Falls on the Kunene River are one of the largest waterfalls in Africa. However, for most of the year the waterfall is dry, due to the Ruacana Hydropower Plant, which is the major source of electricity generated in Namibia.
THE MYSTERIOUS LONE MEN
Kaokoland has long been described as a forelorn and mysterious place, often called the Wild West of Namibia. But, a new mystery has emerged, one that adds to the atmosphere of this fascinating desert wilderness: the Lone Men of Kaokoland. Nearly life-size rock sculptures of men have started appearing across the area a couple of years ago. Made from the rock prevailing in the area, they blend in perfectly with their surroundings and take on different poses, catching you by surprise with their lifelike gait or posture. One figure sits on a hilltop, surveying the arid landscape, another one – referred to as the Dapper Stapper – strolls across the stony plains carrying a bundle on the end of a stick like an old-time traveller, another appears to be deep in thought, while yet another strides across the rugged land with a strong sense of purpose. Each figure has an aluminium disc attached to it, with a number and a message as to where it is going. The sculptures have been spotted along the road on the routes between Puros in the south, Van Zyl’s Pass in the east, Otjinungua in the north and Skeleton Coast National Park in the west.
Wildlife
THE DESERT LIONS’ FIGHT FOR SURVIVAL
Another curiosity of the area is the remarkable desert-adapted lion. With only a small number of their kind left, the desert lions are a rare group of carnivores that have adapted to survive in one of the harshest, most unforgiving landscapes on earth. With their numbers dwindling as poaching and human encroachment threaten their future, sightings are few and far between. For more information on the desert lions of the Namib visit www.desertlion.info
NORTHWEST’S FAMOUS ‘DESERT ELEPHANTS’
The African elephant, a strong and majestic giant, is a key feature on the plains, in the forest and across other landscapes in Africa. In remote parts of north-western Namibia these gentle giants have adapted to survive in harsh desert conditions. In Kaokoland the desert-adapted elephants’ home ranges cover as much as 3 000 km², with the animals trekking up to 200 km in search of water. It was thought initially that these elephants were a different species to the African elephant, Loxodonta africana, because they seem to have longer legs, are taller and have larger feet. However, because they have less to eat than their Etosha counterparts, they don’t carry the same body mass, and therefore appear to be taller and have longer legs. But they do have larger feet, an environmental adaptation caused by walking primarily on soft sand all their lives.
Kaokoland’s desert-adapted elephants rotate the home ranges that they occupy as the seasons change to where food and water can be found. Herds are led by a matriarch, who is usually the oldest female and has accumulated as much as 30 years’ experience of the climatic conditions in her home range. By definition, desert- dwelling elephants occupy an arid habitat for at least part of the year and have special behavioural characteristics, large annual and seasonal ranges, and a social structure and daily activities suited to an arid environment. When feeding, these denizens of the desert take far greater care than their relatives in Etosha. They hardly ever fell trees, break fewer branches and debark much less than other elephants. Whereas adult elephants on average drink between 100–200 litres of water a day, in the Kunene Region they drink only once every three or four days. During droughts they dig deep, narrow holes (gorras) in dry riverbeds with their tusks, trunk and feet to find water.
One of the interesting cultures in this area
The Ovahimba
THE OVAHIMBA LIVING MUSEUM
A Living Museum allows visitors to discover the mysteries and wonders of Ovahimba culture. An exhilarating, energetic demonstration, the living museum gives you the opportunity to learn about the intriguing traditional life of the Himba people. This includes their dress, food and crafts (wood carving and metal work). Guests learn about how the homestead is built, with the Holy Fire at its heart, where all the important communication with the ancestors takes place. They also have the unique opportunity to sit in a hut with a bevy of Himba women learning about their intricate beauty rituals. The Ovahimba Living Museum opened officially in November 2016 and is the sixth of its kind. The museum can be found on the C43, 40 km north of Opuwo.
The Ovahimba of Namibia’s remote north-western Kunene Region, formerly known as Kaokoland, are semi-nomadic pastoralists who migrate in search of grazing and water for their cattle. They are the descendants of Ovaherero who remained in Kaokoland when the rest of the Ovaherero migrated further south. They came under attack from Oorlam Nama commandos who raided their cattle from the mid-1800s to the end of the 19th century, leaving them destitute. Most of them took refuge north of the Kunene River in southern Angola where they gradually rebuilt their herds and returned to Namibia in the 1920s.
Despite the influences they have been exposed to in the past few decades, they have largely retained their traditional way of life. The Ovahimba live in semi-permanent settlements throughout the Kunene Region. Tall, slender and statuesque, they are characterised especially by their proud and friendly bearing. The women are noted for their sculptural beauty, enhanced by intricate hairstyles and traditional adornments.
Ovahimba homes (ozondjuwo) are simple, cone-shaped structures of saplings bound together with palm leaves and plastered with mud and dung. The structures which have a short tunnel-shaped entrance are built by men, while the women do the plastering. A fire burns in the headman’s hut day and night to provide light, heat and keep insects away. Every homestead has a holy fire (okuruwo) in the middle of the main dwelling and the cattle enclosure. The fire has to be kept smouldering, as it serves as the sacred link between the ancestors and the living.
Families may move from one home to another up to ten times a year to search for grazing for their cattle and goats. As they are frequently on the move, a family may live in hundreds of dwellings in a lifetime.
Women wear a short calfskin front apron and a black skirt made of calfskin, while most men nowadays wear a black cloth around their waist. A distinctive feature of Ovahimba women is the ochre colour of their skin. This mixture of butter fat, herbs and powdered ochre (otjize) not only protects their skins, but also keeps insects at bay and prevents their hair from falling out.
Head ornamentation and hairstyles still feature prominently in the Ovahimba culture. A young girl typically has plaits (ozondato). Once she has completed her puberty ceremony, she wears the ekori – a headdress made from tanned sheep’s hide or goatskin with three leaf-shaped points, often decorated with iron beads.
Ovahimba males also wear different hairstyles such as the single plait (ondato) worn by young boys down the back of the head. Men of marriageable age wear the two-plait ozondato. Married men must keep their hair covered, except when mourning the death of a close relative, and wear a fabric scarf covering the head and decorated with an ornamental band.
Children, men and women wear a variety of body adornments made from iron and shells that are indicative of their status. One of the most prized adornments worn by women between their breasts is the ohumba, a sea shell which is passed on from mother to daughter.
EXPERIENCING OVAHIMBA CULTURE
The Ovahimba Living Museum, one of six living museums established by the Living Culture Foundation of Namibia, offers a fascinating insight into the culture and traditions of the Ovaherero. Visitors can experience the daily routine of the Ovahimba by joining several programmes, ranging from traditional life, bush walks and craft-making to singing and dancing. The village is 42 km north of Opuwo on the D3700/ C43 road to the Epupa Falls.
Accommodation
KAOKOLAND & THE KUNENE REGION
- Shipwreck Lodge
- Hoanib Valley Camp
Shipwreck Lodge
Shipwreck Lodge Visit the world-renowned Skeleton Coast and stay at the iconic Shipwreck Lodge for an unforgettable adventure, where you will experience uninhabited expanses, premium service, opulent accommodation and adventurous activities. The lodge and cabins are one-of-a-kind in the world, resembling the stranded ships that litter the shores and waters of this coastline. Broken spars
Hoanib Valley Camp
Hoanib Valley Camp In a country jam-packed with vast, spectacularly beautiful landscapes, Kaokoland may just be the most incredible of them all. Deep in north-western Namibia, the area is a melee of towering mountains, sand dunes, and huge expanses of desert, scattered with unique wildlife and nomadic Himba settlements. It’s also one of Namibia’s most
Community Campsites in this Region
A community campsite is a type of camping facility managed and operated by local communities, often in collaboration with conservation organizations or tourism bodies. These campsites are designed to offer tourists a more immersive and culturally enriching experience, while also providing economic benefits to the locals.
- Hippo Pools Campsite, 12 km west of Ruacana, has shady campsites situated under leadwood and mopane trees, with superb views over the Kunene River.
- Perched on a hill in the midst of mountains overlooking a dry river course, is the Khowarib Campsite.
- The Figtree Campsite, situated close to the Sesfontein Conservancy office, consists of four large sites in a grove of ancient sycamore fig trees surrounding one of the six Sesfontein springs.
- Puros Campsite is positioned on the banks of the Hoarusib River, stamping ground of Namibia’s desert- adapted elephants, which often wander through the campsite.
- Providing affordable self-catering accommodation in the area is Puros Bush Lodge, with Himba settlements close by.
- Situated on the Khumib riverbank, the Marble Campsite is an attractive and well-equipped facility that represents a veritable oasis in the rugged surroundings.
- The Okarohombo Community Campsite is shaded by giant ana trees in the remote Marienfluss Valley along the Kunene River, with the mountains of Angola looming on the other side.
- At the Epupa Falls Campsite, spread out among waving makalani palms, water rushes toward the falls and fine mist hovers in the air.
- The Van Zyl’s Pass Campsite is only for those who are extremely well-prepared for negotiating difficult and rough terrain to get there.
